Bryn Cader Faner

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Bryn Cader Faner July 2018 ©Kel Harvey

    Y Rhinogydd - the Rhinogs in English - is a small group of not-especially tall, but particularly remote mountains between Tremadog Bay in the west and the A470 to the east. The terrain is extremely boggy during the wet seasons: the ground not drying out in some places even after a long, hot summer. It is good yomping territory for the committed, well equipped walker who can read a map - I wouldn't recommend relying solely on GPS up there, and a good pair of boots really is necessary.
    Jane & I went for a walk up there a couple of years ago to find the stone circle pictured - Bryn Cader Faner - the remains of a small megalithic grave site from the second or third millenium BC, robbed in previous centuries and used in the last one by the Army for gunnery practice during WWII. What remains is still pretty enigmatic, resting so high over the surrounding area - difficult to reach now, but when it was constructed, this place was remote indeed.
    This whole upland is crossed by the old drovers' roads - the route from North Wales to the markets of England - Birmingham & London in particular. The London to Harlech Road is still in evidence - a track that most would completely overlook today, but which was a major trade route in it's day, with livestock driven in caravan over weeks to arrive at their destination for sale.
    This area is not for the casual stroller and should be taken seriously, even in summer; but it does reward those with a bit more stamina and experience with space and tranquility and the opportunity to be part of an ancient landscape - to quote from the foreword to Jean Napier's volume 'Rhinogydd' by Twm Elias - "Lle i enaid gael llonydd" - where a soul may find peace.

Comments

  1. Phil.21 June 2020 at 22:22

    We went quite some years ago. Absolutely stunning. Keep meaning to go back there.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/birmingham-phil/1105799845/in/photolist-2FPriW-2FNgmq-2FJVtk-2FHD5x-2FN723-2FNsCb-2FMKhY-2FP2WN-2FNUcb-2FNHMN-2FJfVZ-2FHvLz-2FJNeF/

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